Galway part two :)

July 4, 2009

Here I am sitting in the Rathmines library; it’s a lovely building! Thought I should try to catch up on my posts so here we go!  After my stroll along the water my eye was attracted to this stunning photo on this building, close to the Spanish Arch:

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Right in front of it was the Galway Museum so I went for a little visit! It’s a very small museum but it was very interesting. They had some curraghs that were quite lovely (a type of Irish boat with a wooden frame, over which animal skins or hides were once stretched) and they had objects from medieval Galway (there is not much left in the way of buildings from that period alas) but what I found most interesting of all was a postcard exhibition entitled “An Post C Both Sides”. Irish people (wherever they may be in the world) were asked to submit a postcard to: 

“…celebrate postcard design and the skill of handwriting. Anyone can take part in the project to make a personal statement, depicting a favourite memory, a special place, someone important or even a secret. There is no set theme, just the criteria to communicate for the price of a stamp and use a postcard as the medium.”

Each postcard was in a plexiglass holder that you could flip so as to see both sides; I could have stayed there all day looking at the stunning artwork but also, reading total strangers’ deepest inner thoughts. It’s amazing how easy it is to share our most intimate thoughts with total strangers and yet, with family and friends, it’s not always the case. I felt very lucky to catch a glimpse of so many souls…

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Next I stumbled upon T. Dillon and son; the home of the Claddagh rings!  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Claddagh_ring

I managed to make my way through a crowd of German tourists to have a look inside 🙂

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I ended up buying myself one at another store called “Hearts of Galway” (it had only been open for a few weeks) because I thought they were much more attractive (picture to follow in another post). After having read about them, I am wearing it on my right hand with the heart facing away from me; let’s see if a handsome Irish man notices…(guess I’ll have to wait ’til I leave Dublin for that to happen…hehe).

I saw some very colourful buildings as I kept walking:

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And of course, the Irish do like their Guinness… 😉

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Ahh, such nice fluffy white clouds against a dark blue sky; made me happy 🙂

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Next I went to visit the Collegiate Church of Saint Nicholas and I loved it!! It was free to visit and what I really enjoyed was that I was alone inside for the most part of my visit; I like to take my time and look at every little detail.

“The Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas is the largest medieval parish church in Ireland in continuous use as a place of worship at the heart of Galway’s life. It is dedicated to St Nicholas of Myra, patron saint of children (Santa Claus) and of mariners. There is some disagreement about when it was built, but it was certainly finished by 1320. It is bigger than many Irish cathedrals, and still the largest parish church in use in Ireland. During the 16th century, when the famous 14 Tribes were at the zenith of their power, the church was extended by two of the most powerful families the ffrenches and the Lynchs, each of whom built a new side aisle to the nave, resulting in an almost square interior and the unusual three-roofed profile.

On the outside of the church one can see 2 mermaids, a dragon, an ape and a magnificent lion. High at the roof edge are a series of stone gargoyles, some of them richly carved into horses heads, a manticora, human heads and another lion.

Amongst the visitors to St Nicholas’ over the centuries the most famous is probably Christopher Columbus who prayed here during a visit to Galway in 1477. Less welcome were the Cromwellian troops who used the church as a stable for their horses after the siege of Galway in 1652. They are blamed for the headless and handless state of most of the carved figures inside the church.”

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Ok as you may have gathered by now, I took a LOT of pictures there…Just as I was about to leave an old man walked in and started chatting me up about my camera; he told me that he was a photographer and that he had been featured in one of the local papers two weeks ago. He was hilarious; he asked me where I was from and told me I looked Irish (well, I am a quarter Irish). Then he told me what shots I should take in the church and of course, being me, I did it just to make him happy — and it worked! Hehe, so sweet.

My last stop was Lynch Castle, which, sadly now houses a branch of AIB (a bank); how the government could allow this to happen, I do not know but it saddens me. The building had amazing gargoyles on it (have I mentioned my obsession with gargoyles yet? Not sure how it happened but I have one!)!

“Lynch’s Castle is a fine example of the fusion of new and old in Galway. The building has been cited as one of the finest examples of a town castle in the country. Town castles were popular homes for wealthy merchants in Ireland in the 15th and 16th centuries and Lynch’s Castle dates back to this time. Over the years the castle has been modified, even though the original structure remains intact and beautifully preserved. It is particularly notable for the quality of stone carving on the exterior which features the Lynch coat of arms and a number of decorative windows.”

I think this is my favourite gargoyle of all time!!

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These ones are super cool too!!

 

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Right, so now I must laud my hosts Breege, Louise and Noel O’Shaughnessy, from Abacus Guest House in Glenina Heights, Galway http://www.abacusguesthouse.com/. From the start they were very warm and friendly toward me and they bent over backwards to help me when I told them that I was looking for a studio apartment. They lent me a map of the entire city (not just the free tourist map), told me what neighbourhoods are nicer and safer (I would have been lost without that info), called friends and neighbours to see whether they had something available for me and finally, Noel drove me to the bus station on Sunday morning as he said there were not many local buses on Sundays 🙂 It was a stressful time for me but they made me feel like I was staying in my very own home and for that, I am grateful. Thanks guys, I’ll be back for sure when I go visit the Aran Islands and the Cliffs of Moher!!!

People were overall much friendlier in Galway — once when I was looking for one of the flats I had to visit I was lost and looking at my map when this girl about my age stopped her car and asked if I was lost; when I said yes she said: hop in, I’ll drive you. She didn’t know the street either but we figured it out! I was so relieved, it was hot and I’d been walking for ages in the burbs!!! I love you Galway, too bad I couldn’t have stayed 😦 But everything happens for a reason, right? RIGHT? 🙂


Galway: my new home (I hope)!

June 26, 2009

I arrived in Galway the day before last; the train ride went smoothly and in 2 hours and 40 minutes, I was here (“isn’t it incredible?” as Alexander Davies would say)! I met a lovely elderly couple who are from Galway — when I told them about Dublin, they said that they loved Galway and couldn’t imagine living anywhere else 🙂 The gentleman talked to me for a long time; he thought I was a little nuts to quit my job and move here (due to the recession) and he explained to me that elderly people get to travel for free within Ireland! How amazing is that? They both took care of me when I got off the train by showing me where to go to find out what city bus to take; it was a good indicator of how friendly people are here!

 I was quite tired by the time I arrived as I had a sleepless night the day before (too many things, good and bad, rushing through my head) so I headed to my b&b straight away. I once again felt brave enough to take a city bus and asked the driver to let me off at my stop but he forgot — oops! But no worries, luckily the route is a loop so he got me on the way back (he felt so bad the poor thing) so the ride took me 40 minutes instead of 10! When I arrived here I was so very warmly greeted by my hosts; it felt so good to feel welcomed, I missed that feeling…My room is really nice and clean and I feel like I’m staying in a friend’s house! I decided to head out to a hotel just down the road for supper as I had no energy to go back to the city centre (a 25 minutes walk).

Yesterday morning I was served a delicious breakfast: I could have as much fresh fruit as I wanted, yogourt, cereal, juice, coffee and then I had a choice of hot breakfasts. Now I have been very adventurous thus far but I must admit that I am not adventurous enough to go for a full Irish breakfast (black pudding scares me) so I went for scrambled eggs, toast and rashers. I ate enough so as not to need a lunch, which is good because this country is soooo expensive!! Much more expensive than the UK, that’s for sure. I told my hosts about my desire to search for a flat here and they were super helpful! They took the time to tell me about the best neighbourhoods (they say the east end is better than the west end) and explained to me that they are divided by parish; then they showed me the parishes that are closest to the city centre! I would have NEVER received this kind of help from a hotel, that’s for sure.

I headed out to the city centre on foot with my camera and a wee map and no precise plan in mind; just the way I like it! The first thing I noticed as I strolled down the streets was that people here don’t bump into you like they do in Dublin — I was happy to have my personal space back! The streets are busy but not hectic and there far more Irish people here — and most importantly, people are friendly!! Yipppeeee! I love happy, friendly people! I felt really safe (Galway has the lowest crime rate in Ireland) walking down the lovely, colourful streets.

The first thing of interest I came across was a statue in memory of the Magdalen Women: http://www.netreach.net/~steed/magdalen.html

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It just occurred to me now that I had seen the movie The Magdalene Sisters when in came out in 2002 (I recommend seeing it)…I found the sculpture to be powerful as is the poem Make Visible The Tree, written in 1990 when the laundry was demolished.

Make Visible The Tree

By Patricia Burke Brogan

 

This is the Place of Betrayal.

 

Roll back the stones

behind madonna blue walls.

Make visible the tree.

 

Above percussion of engines

from gloom of catacombs,

through a glaze of prayer,

stumble of chanting,

make visible the tree,

its branches ragged

with washed-out linens

of a bleached out shroud.

 

In this shattered landscape,

sharpened tongues

of sulphur-yellow bulldozers

slice through wombs

of blood-soaked generations.

 

This is the place where Veronica,

forsaken,

stares and stares

at a blank towel

I must say that I have had my share of bad luck in my life, but I feel very fortunate right now to be experiencing this — I am discovering so many beautiful things and meeting such kind people. Even when things have been rough (and trust me, there are things I’m not covering here as I prefer to keep them to myself…), I have been learning a lot about the culture as well as learning a lot about myself. This year will be a year of change for me and I want to accomplish many things  — I want to get healthier, read, draw and paint more, learn Irish Gaelic (I have already found a very inexpensive course!! https://cnag.ie/index.php?page=course&action=view&course_id=60&lang=en) and of course travel loads!!! I still can’t believe that I have the courage to travel by myself, I never would have thought I could do this! I have always been afraid of the unknown; it is just in the past three years really that I have started gaining more and more confidence.

OK done with the sidebar 😉

I carried on with my walk and thought this was lovely and so very Irish:

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I also came accross my second Canadian flag!

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It really is a pretty little place:

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Oh, I forgot to mention that it was a warm, humid and very sunny day (as was today)! In fact, I’ve seen very little rain since I landed in Ireland!

What’s this you say? Why, a guy with a leopard print in his hair of course! So very, very wrong, yet fascinating…

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Socks and sandles are wrong…but this man was so cute that I figure it’s ok, right?

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Then I came across the Spanish Arch (a misnomer apparently, as there is no proven association between the Spanish in Galway — it used to be called the Blind Arch), which was built in 1584. Inside one of the arches you can see a 1602 fireplace bearing that bears the Lynch coart of arms.

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Then, I came to the Long Walk, where you can see the river Corrib, which flows into the Atlantic Ocean here. It was so very beautiful!! There were lots of swans and other birds, it felt really good to sit by the water and think.

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There was a really cool building nearby that was sort of falling to pieces, but that had been painted in a very interesting way!

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Ok, I must stop my little tour here as it’s 1:00 a.m. and I am a very tired woman! Before I go, let me just give you a little taste of today: I loved Galway so much yesterday that I decided to stay! I went to visit 3 flats today, none of which I wanted. It is VERY difficult to find a studio here (there are loads in Dublin) so I’m not sure I will manage but I do have some visits lined up for tomorrow so fingers crossed!

More to come about Galway (and I have yet to finish England and Dublin!!) — blogging takes time folks!

Sha x


Off to Galway I go!

June 23, 2009

After spending four days in Dublin, I’ve decided that I should go explore a couple more places before I decide where to settle! Dublin is a nice city but it doesn’t feel very “Irish”, if you know what I mean! Almost everyone is from somewhere else, hardly anyone is friendly either, people are in a rush, it’s survival of the fittest here! I crave a quieter, slower, friendlier place so off I go to the complete opposite side of Ireland: Galway! I find it fascinating that it only takes 3 hours to get there by train, but even more fascinating yet is the fact that yesterday I paid €10.50 for a very basic breakfast in Temple Bar and today I paid €17 for my train ticket!! I’m going to be adventurous and take the city bus (€1.50) from my guesthouse to the train station as the taxi would cost more than the train ticket!!

I am told by everyone that they just LOVE Galway; it’s artsy, people are friendly, it’s more “Irish”! At some point I really want to visit the Aran Islands, which are right near by! I am staying here: http://www.tripadvisor.ie/Hotel_Review-g186609-d622304-Reviews-Abacus_Guest_House-Galway_County_Galway_Western_Ireland.html

The reviews are awesome!! After my experience in Dublin, I look forward to a warm welcome! I can’t wait to leave the place where I am now.

I purchased a cell phone yesterday for the first time in my life! The guy who served me was in shock to hear that I’d never had one and was kind enough to install my SIM card and my credit for me — phew. The nice thing is that I can call anywhere in Ireland and it’s not long distance! I spent the evening trying to figure how to use it! I think I’m doing well apart from texting, which I tried today and failed; I ended up calling Aidan instead of texting him!!

À suivre…